Who claims precedence over a recipe? One who devised the creation or the establishment it homes? Well this is Dave Ahern’s third conception of the famed meaty morsel – at Ben’s Canteen in Clapham – and it’s his best. A triumph!
Yes, it’s over-complicated; interweaving as many ingredients as there are ideas in Ahern’s head, but the resulting orb is astonishing. Consider the list of ingredients: the sausage meat is prepped to the chef’s own unique spec, then cooked in a finished egg with cubed black pudding and baked bean flavourings. The breadcrumbs are made from dried mushrooms and bacon, which become powder-like, and is then added to fresh breadcrumbs (blitzed fresh white bread), rolled twice, and a final third time before cooking (deep-fried and then finished in the oven).
It’s an ideal size. A real feat when all the components of a full English breakfast are included, and rolled up inside. There’s a scorched bacon scent when cut and the meat reveals all those smells which make the full English such an staple. The breadcrumbs are strong and flavoursome, and there’s the faint taste of baked beans against black pudding. The centre egg is perfectly executed; warm and runny, soaking into the meat. Easily one of the best Scotch eggs in town, and perhaps the most moreish, so just as well it’s available throughout the day.